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« Last post by Redbear on March 04, 2022, 09:22:40 AM »
I aint gonna lie to you,
this is a most time consuming pain in the butt process to do,
but the results can be well worth it once you get it down pat.
This will take you a couple of times to get it right, it took me a couple of times,
The finished product, in my opinion, ranks among the world's greatest hashish.
Potency can be more than 50 percent, dare I say 75 percent, THC!
The health benefits are tremendous -- your lungs will thank you. Take away all that vegetable matter, and all you inhale is THC and the pure essence of the plant. Since you remove the trichome heads intact, oils containing the essences that carry the taste to your palate are also captured,
so dont worry..take it slow, most of all, remember that it is a learning experience to save you money.
Producing this royal hash from your leaf trimmings and subpar buds is very easy. Each bag in the Bubblebag kit has a screen sewn into the bottom, each with a different size mesh (holes) measured in microns.
The six sizes are 220U, 190U, 160U, 73U, 45U and 25U. Depending on how much material you're working with, use either a one, five or 20-gallon bucket.
You will need to make a small investment for the bubble hash bags, I prefer the clear Bubble Magic Bags as they are so much easier to clean and they work alot easier than the last 4 brands I have tried..
to clean all products use 91-99% isopropyl alcohol to clean.
do a quick rubdown until it looks clear, seriously wash with clean water a few times to get the smell out..let hang to dry..
I use 4 bubble bags of 220,160, 45, 25 and 2 five non-lipped gallon buckets,
2 non-stick plastic spoons for scrapers, and 2 25U micron drain-cloths for draining of the hash.
2 1/2 gallons of CLEAN PURIFIED WATER- such as Crystal Geyser Spring Water in the gallon sizes.
a 7 pound bag of spring/clean-water small chunk ice
First,
FREEZE YER WEED !
thats correct, freeze your weed for at least 24-48 hours, this freezes the oils on the buds so that they break off easier in the mixing process,
and make sure yer water is cold cold, not frozen !!
The 220U bag is the work bag where the material is placed for blending, so it's considerably stronger than the others.
Now the bags go inside one another smallest to largest.
the 25U first into the bucket, then the 45U, and so on until the last bag, the 220U.
Now add water and ice to your bucket and 220U bag, to a level just above floating. This will keep your materials from falling through the dry part of the screen. Keep in mind that water is our friend through all of this; it keeps most contaminants afloat.
I fist add some ice..bud...ice..bud..ice, then fill slowly with water.
Ice is very important to the process, because it's the icy-cold water that makes the glands brittle for easy separation from the plant matter. Now add your materials -- which should be leaf and/or bud, but no branches -- on top of the water. Add lots more ice and top off with water. Now you're ready for blending.
( I use a black & decker drill with a long handle spiral paintmixer with a special BIT gorilla-glued onto the end) in the 220U Bucket with Material,
Using a hand mixer, blend one-gallon kits for 10 minutes, five-gallon kits for 15 minutes, and 20-gallon kits for 20 minutes. Then let them settle, 20 minutes for the one-gallon, 30 minutes for the five-gallon, and 45 minutes for the 20-gallon kit. This allows all the tiny heads you've dislodged from the plant matter to sink and fall through the screens.
Best results can only be achieved by ensuring there's still ice left when you reach this point. After the brew is allowed to settle, you can start to pull the bags, one by one. First remove the 220U bag that's holding all the plant matter. Immediately put bag with product in it aside for use in a little bit- ( i will explain this shortly )
This is the best way to clean and preserve your Bubblebags. Now you're ready to pull the bags holding the real booty. The material from the next bag, the 190U, may contain some contaminant, but still is good hash.
Remove it from the screen, and place it on its corresponding pressing screen, included in the kit for the water-removal process. Remove the material that's been captured in each of the other bags, the 160U, the 73U, the 45U and finally, the 25U.
Place the material on separate pressing screens provided. Each grade will have unique qualities. You're looking for the full melt. To remove the majority of the remaining water, use a rolling pin. Place the pressing screen on a towel and place another towel on top of it. Then lightly press with the rolling pin. Like with buds, drying the resin should not be rushed.
This is where many people make a mistake, ~ RUN THE BATCH AGAIN ~ !!
thats right..do it again one more time..
after you have removed the majority of product from the bubble bags, pour that green water right back over your iced product that you saved with the 220U bag, mix for about 5 minutes till you see the foam,
let it set for 15 minutes tapping the bucket to settle the trichromes..
and scrape the bags again for about the same amount that you just did on the first run..
I call this the double up run
Using the 25U pressing screen removes most, but not all of the water. Take the wet patties and break them up into fine powder over a piece of thick cardboard. This will pull all the water out over the course of a few days, leaving you with a final product that is bone-dry and ready to be stored. In an unpressed state, your bubble hash will smoke like a bowl of trichomes; pressing and curing it will enhance taste and potency even further.
Some people make a mistake here also,
This mostly pertains to getting the water out, which is the reason for using cardboard for drying.
They take the final product that's only been mildly pressed and press it in their fingers while it's still wet, trying to dry it this way...resulting in moldy bubble hash in most every case.
There are nonactive chemicals that lay dormant as carboxylic-acid chains, which react and turn active once time, oxidation or pressing with heat occurs. By losing the carboxylic acid ring, you activate previously nonactive cannabinoids. You'll get a much darker color as this happens, as the layer that contains the oils and cannabinoid profile in the head breaks and mixes together.
Basically, this means you have to apply heat and pressure. The simplest way to do this is to use your hands or to place it in your shoe to press the resin into a patty.
Every grower can utilize bubble bags to turn trash into stash, without having to coat your lungs black from poisonous impurities.
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